Savaneta

Savaneta is a small town and region on Aruba's sheltered south coast, between the airport and San Nicolas. It is the island's oldest village and was its capital until 1797, when the government moved to Paardenbaai — today's Oranjestad. Now it is mostly residential, with cunucu houses along the main road, fishing piers and a few small places to stay, about a 20-minute drive from the capital. Visitors come for the mangroves and reef of Mangel Halto and for fish eaten by the water.

Why was Savaneta the first capital?

Its story begins long before the Europeans. Savaneta was one of three large Caquetío villages on Aruba, and according to oral tradition it was home to Nicolaas Pyclas, regarded as the last indigenous Aruban, who lived in a hut here until around 1840. In the 16th century it became the seat of the Spanish administration; after the Dutch took Aruba, the commander lived at Commander's Bay (Commandeursbaai), a natural harbour nearby. When trade shifted to Paardenbaai in 1797 the village emptied — by 1816 only one house was still inhabited. Plantations brought people back in the 19th century, and by 1867 Savaneta was recognised as a village of about 150 people, with a school from 1877 and a church from 1900.

The town is also home to what the tourism authority calls Aruba's oldest house, a cas di torto (mud hut) about 150 years old. Commander's Bay is today the Marine Barracks Savaneta, a base for the Royal Netherlands Navy, the Netherlands Marine Corps, the Coastguard and the Aruban military — not open to visitors.

What is Mangel Halto like?

Mangel Halto, just north of the town, is known for calm, shallow water and a network of mangroves, with coral reef further out. The tourism authority recommends it for snorkelling and kayaking; see our guides to snorkelling and kayak and paddleboard for gear and conditions. Snorkel with a buddy and stay within your ability.

Where do you eat in Savaneta?

The best-known stop is Zeerovers, a waterfront spot the tourism authority singles out for freshly caught fish. Fishing is still part of local life here: you will see boats, piers and fish-cleaning tables along the shore.

When is the best time to visit?

• Morning at Mangel Halto, when there are fewer people and the light shows the mangrove water at its clearest.
• Late afternoon for a meal by the sea. The south coast faces the Caribbean, so sunsets are seen at an angle rather than straight out to sea as on Palm Beach.

Who is Savaneta for?

It suits travellers who want a quiet, local base, snorkellers and paddlers, and anyone driving between Oranjestad and San Nicolas. The tourism authority describes it as one of the safest areas on the island, with a close-knit community; usual precautions — not leaving valuables in a parked car — still apply.

What do people misjudge?

• Facilities. Mangel Halto has limited amenities and little shade beyond the mangroves themselves; bring water and sun protection.
• Military area. The base at Commander's Bay is not open to visitors — respect any restricted-area signs.
• Mangroves are a habitat. Do not stand on roots or disturb the young fish that shelter among them.

How does Savaneta fit into a south-coast day?

Savaneta sits on the way from Oranjestad to San Nicolas, so it combines naturally with the island's south-east. A practical order: snorkel or paddle at Mangel Halto in the morning, eat fish at Zeerovers around midday, then continue to San Nicolas for the murals in the afternoon and finish at Baby Beach at the southern tip.